Sometimes these issues are as simple as not having the finish mixed well enough. Or if the finish is thicker in one area vs another it can appear uneven. This is something that can easily happen if wiping the finish on.
I even used a hair dryer to make sure it was really nice and dry. You’ve just spent an incalculable amount of time, blood, sweat, and many times tears making a project out of some very beautiful wood. It is now time to “finish” your masterpiece. This is the stressful step where you must force yourself to transform from craftsman to Walter White from Breaking Bad. And this is why for years, so many of my projects remained 90% completed. Hopefully I can help you put an end to the stress and anxiety of finishing your woodworking projects with “An Idiot’s Guide to Wood Finishing”.
Just watch out for drips and sags from applying too much at once. The epoxy I used said for interior use only and is not UV protected. Since this is an outside patio table, I wanted the weather and UV protection. I know the epoxy poured and leveled out well. Was hoping the same would be true for the Spar. I’ve thought about getting my orbital sander with 220 grit paper and lightly running it over the top of the table to see if I could level the finish.
Of the whole project, this is the trickiest step to get just right. If your brush is too dry, your finish will be too white. Waterborne polyurethane products are pretty easy to apply. First off, these hardwood floor finishes only contain trace amounts of VOCs . As a result, you do not have to worry about adverse health effects.
The Thickness Of Coats
My kitchen table stains easily so my goal was to touch those areas up, but I gathered in order to do that I would have to touch up the whole table. I brought Minmax Polyshades stain & Polyurethane. I used a medium size paint brush, I stroked the table back and forth and I noticed on one side of the table it was darker in some areas and dry spots in other areas. Currently there is streaks of gloss in some areas, streaks of dull spots in some areas, as well as some areas are darker than others- don’t have a smooth look. What can I do to correct this problem and bring my table back to life.
— jennifer (@jenn1662) August 15, 2013
But I have zero experience trying to pour a varnish. A thick layer like that will take some time to dry and you will have to be very careful about dust and insects settling into the finish. Upon completion of my first coat with which I was pleased, our gale force winds in Oklahoma caught a small towel and whipped the small cloth right up on the table. Like a fool I panicked, and took my brush soaking in mineral spirits and tried to smooth the obvious mark. Now, I have about a two to three inch visible “groove” the length of the table. I tried light sanding to see if it would fill with a second coat.
The color and finish still look fantastic after a year of heavy UV and torrential rains by my pool. With teak oil, I found I had to reapply frequently. As long as the previous finish is cured, you should be able to. Maybe rough minwax vs varathane up the surface a little with some 320 grit sandpaper before applying the varnish. Also, test on scrap or an inconspicuous area first to confirm that there are no adhesion issues and that you really like the way it looks.
And to ensure success, you might try sealing the stain with a light coat of shellac prior to using your varnish product. In the end, I wanted to have a thick satin finish. Is it too late to brush a few coats of oil based urethane on top of the two coats of lacquer on there currently?
With water-based finish, you really don’t want to dilute past the manufacturer’s recommendation. And I would continue applying with the foam brush if that’s giving you good results. Water-based finishes do not respond well to the wiping technique. The folding seats are made of wood slats bolted/secured to wrought iron castings. Some wood surface areas have “alligatored” but are generally sound.
Prefer a clear flat / matte finish, and have read so many comments on here I am confused. The wood is white pine and I do not want the wood, nor the finish, to yellow in time. The ceiling square footage is such that I’d like to have as few coats as possible . What is your #1 and #2 recommendations…in case I can’t get #1 locally? You know, I actually did that very thing at a neighbors house when they had it built. The builder insisted I use this lacquer-based stain product, which I applied by HVLP.
As there are various polyurethane options, you will need to make sure that you choose the right one for your project. When you spray polyurethane, it is important to know which settings are best for which sections of the project. A good sprayer will be adjustable with a range of different settings, allowing you to change between them as you spray different areas. For example, a vertical setting should be used for spraying up and down things like table legs, columns, or pegs. Horizontal settings allow you to move the sprayer across larger areas, while the circular or middle setting is ideal for getting contours, corners, edges, and details. A good method to ensure evenness is to start spraying with the sprayer just pointed towards the air, then bringing it down to meet the surface.
I stained it ebony , and I’m going to be varnishing it soon. I’m hoping the combination of flexibility and outdoor protection will be suitable, and plan to use Epifane’s clear for it. Do you think that would work well for the task of protecting a walking stick from the occasional elements? It won’t be left outside, but it’s going outside with me whenever I do. FYI I used a cheap brush .99 and a medium cheap brush $6 and found with the $6 brush if I worked quickly by brush strokes nearly evened out. An exterior polyurethane would certainly be a decent choice considering the conditions.
A useful aid for removing dust and debris from the wood’s surface is tack cloth, which is cheesecloth treated with a sticky substance. If you have a thin, rounded surface or an intricate lattice, you will find it cumbersome to use a brush. Similarly, you would find it impractical to use a brush for applying polyurethane to carved surfaces like moldings. In such a case, wipe-on poly comes to the rescue. I’m a lifelong woodworker/chemist but have no experience with black stain, and your website answered all my questions. Congratulations on a well designed scientific-type of experiment that was well documented and easy to understand.
As you begin to wet-sand, use your free hand to feel the wood that you have just sanded. You will probably love the feel of the wood, even if you are using regular polyurethane. If you are not quite satisfied, then sand to the next higher grit.
When used on surfaces that may be exposed to water, polyurethane provides a crystal clear layer with a low odor and low toxicity. It can impart color tones without adding its own color to the painted wood. This water-based form of polyurethane isn’t as heat-resistant as other finishes may be and, as a result, won’t bode well in hot conditions. Before applying the pre-stain wood conditioner, be certain that all blemishes have been addressed and all surfaces have been properly sanded. Gouges or scratches should be filled, and it’s important to make sure any glue residue has been removed. You should also finish preparation with a light hand sandingfor a perfect final touch.
I just put up about400sf of T & G stained ceiling on a front porch. I decided to stain the boards first and then apply the finish after they were up. What would you suggest as the best product and method for finishing this. I would prefer to spray if I can but am open to other options. Just seems like spraying would be best for this large of an area and I’m not sure about rolling/brushing on a finish on a ceiling like this. Plus the V-notches would make rolling a little difficult.
Painting Kitchen Cabinets: How To Do It The Right Way
A good contractor would have done that Google search for you to determine that yes you can sand exterior applications. Almost every night I am searching through sites like this one to get the answers to those things I don’t know . I wish more “professionals” would do thd same. As for the number of coats, that’s a personal call. Even on a front door, I don’t like a really heavy film.
If the tipping-off doesn’t work well enough, add 5 or 10 percent mineral spirits to keep the finish “open” longer and give the bubbles more time to pop out. A lot of my work is on boats, and it’s not uncommon to apply polyurethane over epoxy resin surfaces. Some brands of polyurethane level naturally better than others because of their formulation.
The only brand I know of that allows this method to work is Dixie Belle’s Water Based Wax and Clear Coat. Even then, waiting until the wax has cured is recommended. …very nice.For high traffic tables and chairs I like to use a non yellowing Polycrylic or Polyurethane topcoat. Many water-based brands are easy to work with and environmentally friendly. Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from.
- You can stain over another stain (water-based over water-based or oil-based over oil-based), but not over wax, polycrylic, varnish or polyurethane.
- Knowing the differences between chemical finishes, such as between polycrylic and polyurethane, can help you make better decisions when painting.
- Thanks to your advice, I put on more stain and it wiped right off.
- But water-based finishes, traditionally, don’t wipe well.
- But you may or may not like the way it looks.
- Unfortunately, that advice doesnt make much sense.
- Even though Minwax states it is non-yellowing, Applying to white or light colored surfaces will yield a yellowing over time.
- The polyurethane resin adds scratch, heat, solvent and water resistance to the alkyd varnish.
- This post does contain affiliate links to help you find the products I mention in the post.
Just remember that when you use a wipe-on urethane, you aren’t trying to flooding on a real thick layer. You are just coating the surface evenly with a thin wet film. A favorite finish of mine is Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes. It is oil based and really enhances the look of the wood, but is also easy to apply and very durable. Oil based products tend to yellow or amber the wood and take significantly longer to dry and cure, often 12 to 24 hours. Water based products dry very quickly and maintain the original, natural color of the wood.
If you have a local Home Depot, Lowes or another hardware store, they often have polyurethane sheen cards in the stain section. I would recommend checking them before making a decision. Also, ask your flooring pro to swatch a satin and matte swatch. This way you’ll be able to see the way the light in your home reflects off each finish.
It also gives off a strong odor so you’ll need to use a respirator and work in a well-ventilated location when using it. To help even out the color when working with bare woods, you can try using a pre-stain wood conditioner. The conditioner works by penetrating and temporarily sealing the wood to even out the rate of absorption, thereby creating a much more uniform stain coat. A number of softwoods, as well as some of the more porous hardwoods such as maple, aren’t conducive to stained finishes.
The trick is to know how to keep the bubbles from drying in the finish. Confusion has been added in the last decade or so with the introduction of water-based finishes, some of which combine polyurethane with acrylic resins. Also would depend greatly on your expectaions, budget, and just how far you’re willing to go and how much time you’re willing to spend.